Reportaj CNN: Cetatea lui Dracula, Poenari, o capcana turistica

Reportaj CNN: Cetatea lui Dracula, Poenari, o capcana turistica

by October 31, 2010 55 comments

Ruinele Cetatii Poenari situata pe varf de munte ofera o priveliste aparent fara sfarsit de vai adanci, stanci gri-carbune si izvoare de munte. Este un paradis natural si totusi excursiile la cetate nu se fac doar pentru privelistea minunata, ci pentru legatura ei cu cel mai faimos vampir din istorie, Dracula, relateaza CNN intr-un reportaj semnat de Aaron Cooper. Din pacate, in ciuda legaturii sale destul de bine acceptate cu domnitorul Vlad Tepes, cetatea nu este altceva decat o capcana turistica. In schimb, castelul Bran scoate bani frumosi folosind legenda lui Dracula.
Faimoasa carte si filmele care au urmat sunt fictiune, dar de cand Bram Stoker si-a publicat romanul in 1897, lumea a privit Transilvania ca fiind casa ‘Contelui Dracula’. Si exista un pic de adevar in ea. Desi Stoker nu a vizitat niciodata Europa de Est, personajul sau celebru se bazeaza, in parte, pe un domnitor real din secolul al XV-lea – Vlad Tepes, care a trait intre 1431 si aproximativ 1476 si a domnit in Valahia, sudul actual al Transilvaniei. Ca lider militar, el a fost un erou pentru poporul sau si are un loc in Muzeul Militar National Roman. Un alt muzeu explica ca numele ‘Dracula’ este de fapt un titlu din ordinul cavalerilor dragonului, a caror misiune era sa apere crestinismul. Documente semnate de ‘Vlad Dracula’ inca exista.
Cetatea Poenari nu se afla pe un traseu turistic principal. De fapt, e destul de greu sa ajungi acolo. Transportul public este rar si principalul oras turistic din regiune, Brasovul, este la ore distanta. De la barajul Vidraru, indicatoarele avertizeaza ca pana la cetate sunt de urcat 1480 de trepte.
Nu imi pot imagina o armata sperand sa cucereasca cetatea. Este destul de greu si pe scari moderne, relateaza autorul reportajului, care pe drumul de la Brasov la Poenari a consemnat trecerea prin sate care pareau incremenite in timp.
Intrarea in cetate este pazita de un singur om, care nu vorbeste aproape deloc engleza. Taxa de intrare este de 5 lei romanesti, consemneaza CNN. Placute in limbile engleza si romana informeaza ca Vlad a extins cetatea in 1457. Legenda spune ca el capturat rezidenti ai unui oras inamic (de fapt erau familii boieresti din Targoviste – n.r.) si i-a fortat sa construiasca castelul ca pedeapsa. Structura nu a fost niciodata foarte mare, dar acum tot ce a mai ramas sunt ziduri in ruina inalti de aproximativ un etaj. Plimbandu-te prin cetate, poti simti cum Vlad si garnizoanele lui se uitau dupa dusmani afara peste vai.
In ciuda legaturii sale destul de bine acceptate cu Vlad, cetatea nu este altceva decat o capcana turistica. Am vazut doar alti doi oameni vizitand-o in frunoasa zi de toamna. Acesta nu este un loc pentru a cumpara tricouri cu Dracula. De fapt, singurele suveniruri pe care le-am gasit au fost cateva carti postale oferite de paznic spre vanzare, scrie Cooper.
Majoritatea romanilor vad in Vlad Tepes un fel de erou, si nu demonul rau al ‘Contelui Dracula’. Ghidul nostru, mentioneaza ziaristul de la CNN, ne-a spus ca Vlad a fost un lider si ca nu merita acest renume. In Evul Mediu, pedepsele brutale si executiile, inclusiv cele efectuate de Vlad – tragerea in teapa, de unde si porecla sa, erau un lucru obisnuit.
De fapt, un muzeu a sugerat ca Vlad este mai mult un personaj gen Robin Hood, nemilos cu cei bogati, care incalcau legea, dar in acelasi timp un prieten de nadejde al celor saraci. Pentru taranii din Tara Romaneasca el a fost un erou national care a servit cauzei lor.
In schimb, in ciuda legaturii destul de fragile cu Vlad Dracula, locul in care turistii se inghesuie sa-l caute pe vampir este insa Castelul Bran – un castel mai confortabil al lui Dracula. Inca intact, situat pe o stanca, cu turnuri si scari secrete, dar pe soseaua principala, acesta arata de parca ar trebui sa aiba un vampir infricosator inauntru. Si asta e ceea ce promoveaza bisnitarii afara. Chiar inainte sa ajungi la poarta de intrare, vanzatorii se intrec in a-si lauda marfa – tricouri, vinul Vampir, cani in forma de vampir.
Armatele lui Vlad au trecut prin in zona, dar muzeul la care face trimitere jurnalistul american subliniaza ca exista putine dovezi ca el si-a petrecut timpul aici. Afisele din interiorul castelului sunt in principal dedicate familiei regale romane, care l-a folosit ca resedinta in prima parte a secolului 20, desi o camera povesteste istoria de legenda a lui Dracula. Acest lucru a lasat o tanara turista confuza. Ea m-a oprit, m-a intrebat daca vorbesc engleza, si m-a intrebat cu toata seriozitatea: ‘Stii unde este dormitorul lui Dracula?

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